In Response to an Eyebrow Question

I had this comment posted on the Decades of Eyebrows post, and thought it deserved its own mini-post.

Anonymous says:
Is it wrong for a male to have pencilled eyebrows like Jean Harlow? My girlfriend wants to shave all her eyebrows off and I don't have a problem with that, but she would like the two of us to go to a party dressed the same way.

Dear Anonymous:

It's not wrong to have anything, but this look may be permanent! Jean Harlow's eyebrows were shaved off and pencilled in very high above her natural browline because her deep-set eyes were difficult to film with the black and white cameras of the day. Many of her contemporaries had the pencilled look; it was popular in the 1930's.
Lucille Ball and Lana Turner are but two poor souls who once shaved off their eyebrows for a role, only to discover that they never grew back. I myself pencilled in my eyebrows for 2 years because of a chemical burn from black dye. I was very lucky, because they partially grew back. Nine out of ten would not have been!
My advice: DO NOT shave off your eyebrows, especially for a one-time costume. Instead, cover them up with stage makeup and draw over them - The effect will be the same. I can't advise your girlfriend, since she will do what she wants (I'm the same way), but I urge you not to do it. You will most likely regret it.

Vintagey Pieces from Modern Stores

I love repro clothing, but lets face it - Ordering online just doesn't have the same quality of instant gratification that mall shopping does. However, the word "mall" is all that is needed to make us vintage ladies cringe. Shiny leggings here, ironic T-shirts there... No thanks!
Sometimes, though, mall stores will surprise you. It hit me last night how many times it's happened to me. These pieces are pretty special - They would have to be, for me to buy them! :)

This blouse has fantastic colours, and a strong resemblance to 1940's Jezebel blouses when worn. (Found at The Gap.)

I love the ruffle on this silky black blouse. It looks fantastic when paired with a pencil skirt. (Picked up at Sirens for a song.)

The day I bought these, which was at least 5 years ago, I was wondering where I could find high waisted 1940's style trousers. (Who knew I'd find them at Old Navy?)

This summer skirt makes me smile, not just because of its sunny colour, but because it rustles loudly when I walk! (Also found at Old Navy.)

I plundered 3 malls up and down the day I found this beauty. (Dynamite hasn't failed me yet!)

I don't usually wear A-line skirts, but this chocolate brown corduroy affair is so warm in the winter! (Found at H&M.)

This dress is the best! You can't see, but it has shiny silver pinstripes. It's styled exactly like Marilyn's iconic white halter. (I love Suzy Shier.)

I feel in love with this dress for its colour and amazing 1940's styling. It's the kind you'd see dangerous Film Noir vixens in, and that's exactly how it makes me feel. (Another Suzy Shier find!)

There was a time in my life when I didn't have this dress. I walked aimlessly through stores, feeling neither here nor there about anything. Then my gaze fell upon this delicious garment. I tried it on, and discovered it was tailor-made for me. Things have never been the same. (We met at HBC.)

My mum brought this gorgeous swing dress home for me one afternoon, and I was disheartened that it didn't fit me. She took it in here, and let it out there, and now it's perfect. (Isaac Mizrahi for Fairweather.)

Tell me about your serendipitous mall finds!

The Middy Tutorial

The Middy is a layered haircut designed for 1940's hairstyling. It was cut 4 inches all over and could have variations, such as the Middy Long. However, the length is entirely a matter of preference as it is the cut that matters.
Ivan of Hollywood was the first to introduce this haircut. It was considered the most flattering and ideal cut for most women of the period.*


I posted a how-to at the Fedora Lounge, and the general consensus was that it was easy, so it has graduated to the blog. :)
This is the only time you will see me fresh faced and penguin-robed, so enjoy it now!

Step one: Part hair into sections.

Step two: Cut the sides.
Comb the hair out as flat and straight as possible, on the angle that I have used. Imagine there is a line extending from your chin to your collarbone. Carefully clamp the hair between your middle and index fingers along this line, and cut.

Step three: Cut the top hair.
Comb your top hair down perfectly straight and flat, as shown. The length here depends on how you style the hair - If you usually do Victory rolls, or a faux roll (à la Fleur de Guerre), keep it below your lips. If you prefer sideswept styles (like LisaFreemontSt), keep it to the tip of your nose or higher. Clamp your hair like before and cut straight across.

Step four: Cut the back.
The back hair in a Middy has long layers so curls will sit properly on top of each other. This is difficult to do yourself, but with pigtails its easier. The tails should sit in the centre and toward the bottom of your sections. Pull the pigtails out as straight as you can, and clamp the ends on an upward angle with your fingers. The tip of your fingers should be closer to your head than your knuckles. Position your scissors and cut.

Step five: Even it out.
This part is tricky. Take out all your sections, and comb all your hair down flat so it lies naturally. You will notice a definite length difference between where your side section ends and your back hair begins. As carefully as you can, even out this difference so the hair is on a downward angle. (Mine is actually pretty bad...)

Things to remember:

• The Middy is for hair that is always curled and styled, so your cuts and lengths don't need to be ruler-exact.
• Don't get scissor-happy. If you think you've cut it too short, stop immediately. No good will come from more cuts.
• That said, there is room for error here, and if you do mess up, don't panic! Hair grows back, and with clever sets no one will know the difference.

Please post your feedback, and if you try it out, tell us your results!

*From 1940's Hairstyles by Daniela Turudich, 2001.

Decades of Eyebrows

The human face is remarkable. Each of its features work together to convey powerful emotions or tell a story. Sometimes different features can show opposing emotions at the same time. No two are alike - Each face is a canvas on which we create fascinating works of art.

Like any good piece of artwork, the features on the face need to be in harmony. Whether or not a face is harmonized depends entirely on the eyebrows. When done properly, they set off other features and are not prominent - When botched, they are distracting and undo all work done on the rest of the face (Re: Joan Crawford c. 1935 vs 1955.)

Eyebrows have undergone distinct changes in style by decade. Pictured here are the ladies who epitomized, or popularized, each style:

1910's
The Gibson Girl look. Brows are completely natural with minor arch enhancement.

1920's
Straight and thin, with no arch. Usually shaved off and pencilled in.

1930's
Exaggerated height and length, drawn high above the natural arch and extending to the temple. Usually shaved off.

1940's
Medium thickness with a natural arch - A huge departure from styles of the past 20 years.

1950's
Thicker and darker than 1940's brows, with sharply pointed arches and tails.

1960's
Heavy thickness and pencilled in with "natural" strokes.

As you can see, the 1940's brows were the most natural shape, thickness, and appearance of all the styles, without being completely unkempt like those of the 1910's. Thicker brows lend a more youthful look to the face, and thinner ones more severe.
However, the effect depends entirely on the lady. An accident with hair dye left me without eyebrows for 2 years, so I drew them similar to Jean Harlow's (pictured above.) When they finally grew back, a little bit of pencil has them looking more like Marilyn's (also pictured above). That experience (although traumatizing), combined with the training I did in aesthetics, gave me a better understanding of what works for my face.

Eyebrows which follow one's naturally occurring shape are timeless, and the best option for those who do not want a distinct style. The same is true for the shape of the eyes, face, nose, and mouth - When in doubt, go with your DNA. :)

Vintage ladies: do any of you style your brows in a decade-specific look?

Presents - A Pictorial

Hello all - Did you have a nice Christmas? :)
We had a lovely time, full of food, family, and laughs. When the time comes to look back upon my life memories, I know ones like these will be my most cherished.

...But at this point, I cherish my presents just as much :D Here are the lovely items I was fortunate to find under my tree this Christmas:

A lovely new charm for my Juicy Couture bracelet;

A mink beret from my favourite vintage shop, Toronto's Cabaret;

A shocking pink cardigan with rhinestone buttons (my mum knows me too well!);

A darling miniature Barbie shoe;

A bath collection inspired by Marilyn Monroe that came in this fantastic evening purse - Imagine roses, baby powder, and lavender all mixed together;

A pink cupcake pendant from Tiffany that sits perfectly atop my shopping tote;

The Great American Pin-Up: the first complete monograph of pin-up art ever published, which (needless to say) I have been lusting for;

Dita Von Teese's Stripteese, three fabulous flipbooks;

And last, but by no means least, the complete first and second seasons of Mad Men on DVD.

Millions of thanks to my wonderful family and friends, and to Santa Claus, for a fabulous Christmas; And thank you to my readers for allowing me to gloat shamelessly. <3

Tonight's Film: Laura (1944)

"The story of a love that became the most fearful thing that ever happened to a woman!"

Alright, if you haven't seen this movie, I don't wanna know ya ;)

Beautiful career woman Laura Hunt (Gene Tierney) is found murdered in her lavish apartment one Friday night - Both barrels of a shotgun in the face. Hard boiled detective Mark MacPherson (Dana Andrews) is in charge of the investigation, and interviews the key people in her life: Waldo Lydecker (Clifton Webb), columnist and Svengali; Shelby Carpenter (Vincent Price), fiancé and playboy; Bessie Clary, devoted maid and police hater; and Ann Treadwell (Judith Anderson), aunt and jealous woman. MacPherson quickly finds himself caught up in Laura's life, fascinated by her complex relationships, private diaries, and a portrait hung over her fireplace...
"You'd better watch out, McPherson, or you'll finish up in a psychiatric ward. I doubt they've ever had a patient who fell in love with a corpse."

MacPherson, distraught, falls asleep in Laura's apartment surrounded by her letters and gazing at her portrait. Just then, somebody walks in - Their appearance will change the whole course of the investigation.

Points of interest:

• Won an Academy Award for best B&W cinematography, 1945. Nominations include Clifton Webb for best supporting actor; Otto Preminger for best director; best art direction and interior decoration; and best screenplay.
• The heavily figured portrait is actually an enlarged photograph: Preminger was dissatisfied with the commissioned portrait done by a popular artist, and had Tierney pose for a studio still that was done over with paint.
• Tierney originally did not want to make this film, but was obliged to by her contract.
• Webb, Price, Andrews, Anderson and Tierney all died within three years of each other.
• David Raskin's song "Laura" is a living legacy from the film. Composed over one weekend, it was originally entitled "Judy" in honour of Judy Garland.

This masterpiece of Film Noir ranks 8.1/10 on IMDb. According to me it should be at least 15. Not only is it my namesake, but my favourite film of all time. :)

Betty Grable Bangs

I devised a setting pattern for Betty Grable bangs quite by accident, posted the results at the FL, and was asked for a diagram. It proved useful, and one of the ladies even posted her results with the same method.

Because I really am that pompous, I will post it here :)

Begin with washed and towel dried hair. Apply setting lotion (Lottabody is popular) or a strong hold mousse (I like Big Sexy Hair.) You will need a rattail comb.

Part out the top section of hair from between the arches of the eyebrows back to the crown of the head - Your top hair can be anywhere from 4 to 6.5 inches long.
Create 3 rows of diagonal sections of hair as shown (a-f), and one section at the forehead left over (g). It is important to do them diagonally so the parts can be disguised.
Set in 2.5cm (1 inch) rollers, rolled toward the forehead. If using pincurls, curl a, c, e, and g clockwise, and b, d and f counterclockwise, using 2 pincurls per section.

When you take out the set in the morning, you will have funky looking curls like this:

Now start separating and arranging them. The amount of times you separate each curl is dependent on the smoothness you want: The more times, the curlier. Fluff them out a bit with your comb - Do not pull the comb all the way through the hair.
If you like, you can secure the sides with bobby pins, but even with my pin straight hair they stay up very well.

Use finishing spray if preferred - I personally don't use any.

And you're done! These bangs are perfect for updos, or can be paired with victory rolls or ponytails - A very versatile look. :)